Waves shape our oceans, driven by wind, seismic activity, and gravity. They're characterized by wavelength, frequency, and amplitude. Understanding wave formation and propagation is key to grasping how energy moves through water.

Wave types range from tiny capillary waves to massive tsunamis. The relationship between wave speed, wavelength, and frequency is crucial. In deep water, waves move differently than in shallow areas, affecting their speed and behavior.

Wave Formation and Characteristics

Process of wave formation

• Wind-wave formation occurs as wind energy transfers to water surface through friction between wind and water
• Wind duration and fetch (distance wind blows over water) influence wave development
• Factors shaping wave characteristics include wind speed, duration, fetch length, and water depth
• Other wave formation mechanisms encompass seismic activity (tsunamis) and gravitational forces (tides)

Wave propagation and energy transfer

• Wave propagation involves movement of wave form through water with orbital motion of water particles
• Energy transfer occurs as kinetic energy in moving water particles and potential energy in raised water surface
• Wave propagation characterized by no net horizontal movement of water, only vertical displacement of particles
• Deep water propagation exhibits circular orbits while shallow water shows elliptical orbits

Wave Types and Properties

Types of waves and characteristics

• Wave characteristics defined by wavelength (distance between crests), frequency (waves passing fixed point per time), and amplitude (vertical distance from still water to crest)
• Wave types include capillary waves (ripples), wind waves (sea and swell), tsunamis, and internal waves
• Wave steepness determined by ratio of wave height to wavelength
• Waves classified based on water depth: deep water, transitional, and shallow water waves

Wave speed, wavelength, and frequency relationships

• Wave equation $c = λf$ relates wave speed (c), wavelength (λ), and frequency (f)
• Inverse relationship exists between wavelength and frequency
• Direct relationship between wave speed and wavelength
• Wave speed affected by water depth (shallow waves) and gravitational acceleration
• Deep water wave speed calculated using $c = \sqrt{\frac{gλ}{2π}}$ where g is gravitational acceleration
• Shallow water wave speed determined by $c = \sqrt{gh}$ where h is water depth