The textile industry played a pivotal role in shaping Appalachia's economy and society. From humble beginnings as a cottage industry, it evolved into a major economic force with the rise of industrial mills in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

These mills transformed Appalachian communities, providing jobs but also creating economic dependence. The industry's legacy is complex, encompassing both economic opportunities and challenges, as well as lasting impacts on the region's culture, environment, and landscape.

History of textile industry

• The textile industry has played a significant role in shaping the economic and social landscape of Appalachia
• Early textile production began as a cottage industry, with families producing textiles in their homes using traditional methods
• The rise of industrial mills in the late 19th and early 20th centuries transformed the textile industry in Appalachia, leading to large-scale production and significant changes in the region's economy and society

Early cottage industry

• Textile production in Appalachia began as a cottage industry, with families producing textiles in their homes using traditional methods such as spinning wheels and hand looms
• Cottage industry textiles were primarily made from locally sourced materials such as wool from sheep and flax for linen
• The cottage industry provided supplemental income for many Appalachian families, particularly during the winter months when agricultural work was limited

Rise of industrial mills

• The rise of industrial mills in the late 19th and early 20th centuries transformed the textile industry in Appalachia
• Industrial mills were large-scale factories that used mechanized equipment such as power looms and spinning frames to produce textiles more efficiently and at a lower cost than cottage industry production
• The rise of industrial mills led to the development of mill towns, where workers lived in company-owned housing and shopped at company-owned stores
• Examples of major textile mills in Appalachia include the Cone Mills in Greensboro, North Carolina and the Milliken Mills in Spartanburg, South Carolina

Impact on Appalachian economy

• The rise of the textile industry had a significant impact on the Appalachian economy, providing jobs and economic opportunities for many residents
• Textile mills were often the largest employers in their communities, providing steady work and a reliable income for workers
• However, the textile industry also led to economic dependence on a single industry, leaving many communities vulnerable to economic downturns and mill closures
• The decline of the textile industry in the late 20th century had a devastating impact on many Appalachian communities, leading to widespread job losses and economic hardship

Types of textiles produced

• The textile industry in Appalachia produced a wide range of fabrics and products, including clothing, bedding, and industrial textiles
• The types of textiles produced varied depending on the region and the specific mills, but cotton, wool, and synthetic fabrics were among the most common

Cotton fabrics

• Cotton was one of the most important textile fibers produced in Appalachia, particularly in the southern states such as North Carolina and South Carolina
• Cotton fabrics produced in Appalachian mills included denim, chambray, and cotton duck (a heavy, plain-woven cotton fabric)
• Cotton fabrics were used to make a wide range of products, including clothing, towels, and sheets

Wool fabrics

• Wool was another important textile fiber produced in Appalachia, particularly in the northern states such as West Virginia and Pennsylvania
• Wool fabrics produced in Appalachian mills included flannel, tweed, and worsted wool (a fine, smooth wool fabric)
• Wool fabrics were used to make products such as suits, coats, and blankets

Synthetic fabrics

• In the mid-20th century, Appalachian textile mills began producing synthetic fabrics such as polyester and nylon
• Synthetic fabrics were cheaper to produce than natural fibers and had properties such as wrinkle resistance and easy care
• Synthetic fabrics were used to make a wide range of products, including clothing, upholstery, and industrial textiles (such as seat belts and airbags)

Textile manufacturing process

• The textile manufacturing process involves several steps to transform raw fibers into finished fabrics and products
• The specific steps involved in textile manufacturing can vary depending on the type of fiber and the desired end product, but generally include spinning, weaving, and finishing

Spinning of fibers

• Spinning is the process of twisting fibers together to create yarn, which is then used to make fabric
• In Appalachian textile mills, spinning was typically done using machines such as spinning frames and ring spinners
• The type of fiber being spun (such as cotton or wool) and the desired end product determined the specific spinning method used
  • For example, worsted wool spinning involves combing the fibers to align them before spinning, resulting in a smoother, finer yarn than woolen spinning

Weaving of fabrics

• Weaving is the process of interlacing yarns to create fabric
• In Appalachian textile mills, weaving was typically done using power looms, which used mechanical power to speed up the weaving process
• The pattern of the weave (such as plain weave or twill weave) and the type of yarn used determined the characteristics of the finished fabric
  • For example, denim is typically made using a twill weave, which creates a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface

Dyeing and finishing

• Dyeing is the process of adding color to fabric using dyes or pigments
• Finishing refers to various treatments applied to fabric after weaving to improve its appearance, texture, or performance
• Common finishing treatments used in Appalachian textile mills included:
  • Sanforization (preshrinking fabric to reduce shrinkage)
  • Mercerization (treating cotton fabric with sodium hydroxide to improve strength and luster)
  • Calendering (pressing fabric between heated rollers to create a smooth, glossy surface)

Labor in textile mills

• Labor conditions in Appalachian textile mills were often difficult and dangerous, with long hours, low pay, and poor working conditions
• Child labor was common in early textile mills, with children as young as six years old working long hours in dangerous conditions
• Efforts to unionize textile workers and improve working conditions were met with resistance from mill owners and sometimes violence

Working conditions

• Textile mill workers often worked long hours, typically 12-hour shifts, six days a week
• Working conditions in textile mills were often dangerous, with workers exposed to hazards such as:
  • Loud noise from machinery
  • Cotton dust and other airborne fibers that could cause respiratory problems
  • Risk of injury from moving machinery parts
• Many textile mills were poorly ventilated and poorly lit, leading to additional health and safety risks for workers

Child labor

• Child labor was common in early Appalachian textile mills, with children as young as six years old working alongside adults
• Children often worked as doffers, replacing full bobbins on spinning frames with empty ones
• Child laborers were paid lower wages than adult workers and were often subject to the same dangerous working conditions
• The use of child labor in textile mills began to decline in the early 20th century with the passage of child labor laws and mandatory education requirements

Unionization efforts

• Efforts to unionize textile workers in Appalachia began in the early 20th century, as workers sought to improve wages and working conditions
• Union organizers faced significant resistance from mill owners, who often used tactics such as blacklisting and violence to suppress unionization efforts
• Notable textile worker strikes in Appalachia included:
  • The 1929 Gastonia strike in North Carolina, where workers at the Loray Mill went on strike to protest low wages and poor working conditions
  • The 1934 textile workers' strike, which involved over 400,000 workers across the United States, including many in Appalachia

Economic impact on Appalachia

• The textile industry had a significant economic impact on Appalachia, providing jobs and economic opportunities for many residents
• However, the industry also led to economic dependence on a single industry, leaving many communities vulnerable to economic downturns and mill closures
• The decline of the textile industry in the late 20th century had a devastating impact on many Appalachian communities, leading to widespread job losses and economic hardship

Job creation vs job loss

• The textile industry was a major employer in many Appalachian communities, providing jobs for thousands of workers
• However, the industry was also prone to boom-and-bust cycles, with periods of high demand followed by downturns and layoffs
• The decline of the textile industry in the late 20th century led to widespread job losses in Appalachia, as mills closed and production shifted overseas
  • For example, between 1997 and 2009, North Carolina lost over 200,000 textile and apparel jobs, many of them in rural Appalachian communities

Company towns

• Many Appalachian textile mills were located in company towns, where the mill owner controlled housing, stores, and other services
• Company towns often provided workers with affordable housing and access to credit at company-owned stores, but also left workers dependent on the company for their livelihoods
• When mills closed or laid off workers, entire communities could be devastated, with few other employment options available

Decline of textile industry

• The decline of the textile industry in Appalachia began in the mid-20th century, as competition from overseas manufacturers increased and demand for textiles decreased
• Factors contributing to the decline of the industry included:
  • Lower labor costs in developing countries such as China and India
  • Increased automation and productivity in textile manufacturing
  • Changing consumer preferences and the rise of synthetic fibers
• The decline of the textile industry had a devastating impact on many Appalachian communities, leading to widespread job losses, economic hardship, and population decline

Environmental impact

• The textile industry had a significant environmental impact on Appalachia, with pollution from dyes, chemicals, and waste products affecting air and water quality
• Efforts to regulate and mitigate the environmental impact of the textile industry have had mixed success, with some progress made but ongoing challenges remaining

Water pollution from dyes

• Textile mills used a variety of dyes and chemicals to color and treat fabrics, which could pollute nearby waterways if not properly treated and disposed of
• Dyes and chemicals used in textile production could contain heavy metals, sulfides, and other toxic substances that could harm aquatic life and human health
• Efforts to regulate and reduce water pollution from textile mills have included:
  • The Clean Water Act of 1972, which established standards for water quality and wastewater treatment
  • The use of more environmentally friendly dyes and chemicals, such as low-impact and natural dyes

Air pollution from factories

• Textile mills also produced air pollution, particularly from the use of coal-fired boilers to generate steam and power
• Air pollutants from textile mills could include particulate matter, sulfur dioxide, and nitrogen oxides, which could contribute to respiratory problems and other health issues
• Efforts to reduce air pollution from textile mills have included:
  • The Clean Air Act of 1970, which established national air quality standards and required industries to reduce emissions
  • The use of cleaner-burning fuels and more efficient boiler technologies

Disposal of waste products

• Textile production also generated a significant amount of solid waste, including fabric scraps, packaging materials, and other byproducts
• Improper disposal of textile waste could lead to environmental contamination and health risks for nearby communities
• Efforts to reduce and properly manage textile waste have included:
  • The development of recycling and reuse programs for textile waste
  • The use of more sustainable and biodegradable materials in textile production

Cultural significance

• The textile industry has played a significant role in shaping the cultural identity of Appalachia, with traditions such as quilting and handcrafted textiles serving as important cultural practices
• The industry has also had a complex and sometimes controversial relationship with Appalachian communities, with issues such as labor exploitation and environmental degradation affecting the region's cultural fabric

Quilting traditions

• Quilting has a long and rich history in Appalachia, with quilts serving as both functional bedding and artistic expressions of cultural identity
• Appalachian quilts often feature traditional patterns and designs, such as the Log Cabin and the Nine Patch, which have been passed down through generations
• Quilting bees, where women gather to work on quilts together, have served as important social and cultural events in Appalachian communities

Handcrafted textiles

• In addition to quilting, Appalachia has a strong tradition of handcrafted textiles, including weaving, knitting, and crochet
• Handcrafted textiles often use locally sourced materials, such as wool from sheep raised in the region, and feature traditional patterns and techniques
• The production and sale of handcrafted textiles has provided an important source of income for many Appalachian artisans, particularly women

Appalachian identity

• The textile industry has played a complex role in shaping Appalachian identity, with both positive and negative aspects
• On one hand, the industry provided jobs and economic opportunities for many Appalachian residents, and the cultural practices associated with textile production (such as quilting) have become important symbols of regional identity
• On the other hand, the industry has also been associated with labor exploitation, environmental degradation, and economic dependence, which have had negative impacts on Appalachian communities and culture
• The decline of the textile industry in the late 20th century has led to a reevaluation of its role in Appalachian identity, with efforts to preserve and celebrate the region's textile heritage while also acknowledging its complex and sometimes troubled history

Legacy of textile industry

• The textile industry has left a lasting legacy in Appalachia, with abandoned mill buildings, adaptive reuse projects, and efforts to preserve the region's industrial heritage serving as reminders of its impact
• While the industry has declined in recent decades, its influence can still be seen in the region's economy, culture, and landscape

Abandoned mill buildings

• As the textile industry declined in the late 20th century, many mills closed and were abandoned, leaving behind large, often dilapidated buildings
• Abandoned mill buildings can be found throughout Appalachia, from small towns to larger cities, and serve as visual reminders of the industry's former prominence
• Some abandoned mills have become safety hazards and eyesores, while others have been demolished or repurposed for other uses

Adaptive reuse projects

• In recent years, there has been growing interest in adaptive reuse projects that seek to repurpose abandoned textile mills for new uses
• Examples of adaptive reuse projects in Appalachia include:
  • The conversion of the Loray Mill in Gastonia, North Carolina into a mixed-use development with apartments, offices, and retail space
  • The transformation of the Piedmont Mill in Spartanburg, South Carolina into a community center and event space
• Adaptive reuse projects can help to preserve the region's industrial heritage while also providing new economic opportunities and community resources

Preservation of industrial heritage

• Efforts to preserve and celebrate Appalachia's textile heritage have grown in recent years, with museums, exhibits, and cultural events showcasing the industry's history and impact
• Examples of textile heritage preservation efforts in Appalachia include:
  • The Textile Heritage Museum in Cooleemee, North Carolina, which features exhibits on the history of the textile industry in the region
  • The Woolen Mills Day festival in Cleveland, Georgia, which celebrates the town's history as a center of wool production
• Preservation efforts can help to educate younger generations about the region's industrial past and promote cultural pride and identity